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ROLAND SYSTEM-1M SYNTHESIZER

Free System-1m Patches

One day, while waiting for a huge download of "Carrara" (3D Modeling software), I was tinkering with our "Roland System-1m" synthesizer and created 4 Patches. Download them with the link below and use them any way you wish.

  • Patch 4: This is a high energy sound. Playing Staccato produces bright sounds.
  • Patch 6: ?
  • Patch 16: Playing Staccato produces cleaner notes. When playing Legato, the notes become increasingly faster and then stop.
  • Patch32: This is a Lead sound.Play Staccato for a few notes and then hold a note.
Download "Infinity Patches for System-1m.zip"
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(10/7/16) As you can see, further down this page, the design I used for this Stand has changed a few times.

I had been wanting to color everything in our home... well, "some" of our music gear, "purple", Sylvia's favorite color, for quite a while. Last week, I finally got around to doing it. I also had an idea of using "Plasti-Dip" (spray-on rubber coating) for a few projects. So after painting a pair of my Drumsticks purple and coating them with "clear", non-slip rubber, I decided to fine-tune my Roland System-1m "Stand".

My goal with this project was to find a way to have the System-1m sit on my desk but not move whenever I plug and un-plug cables into its Patch-points. I wanted something simple but practical.

I didn't think about taking pictures until the entire design was complete. At that point, I couldn't take it apart because the screws in the board would have weakened their grip.

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Basically, this current design is just a "board". However, after going through my previous designs (below), I realized that I only needed to anchor the System-1m at 3 points:

  • it's front-edge,
  • it's back-left and
  • it's back-right

In the image at the left, you can see the finished design. Notice the included red Patch cables are drapped over 2 nylon screws, which are a little over an inch in length. We found these at our local Lowe's hardware store. Because they're nylon, and because I only finger-tightened them, they won't scratch the finish on this synthesizer.

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Here, you can see the front-right corner of the "Stand" and synth. In order to keep the front-edge of this synth from sliding forward, when un-plugging a Patch cord, I used a piece of soldering wire. (A spool of that wire is in this photo.) I straightened out the wire, glued it to the board with superglue and then sprayed clear, Plasti-Dip on the entire board (and wire).

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This is a wider shot of that same corner. Notice the white screw-head to the left of the drapping, red cables. This nylon screw extends out the back and allows me to drap the red cables and the Power Cord over those 2 screws (one on each side).

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Here, I'm showing the same side but focusing on the nylon screw and the piece which is keeping the System-1m from tilting forward whenever I un-plug a Patch cord. That textured , purple wedge, to the right of the red cables, is a purple sponge. I cut it so it's shaped to the slant of the System-1m's back-leg. I then ran a long screw with a washer through the length of it and into the board. Because this sponge is very firm when dry, it acts as a semi-solid, but non-scratching, anchor.

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This is the same shot as above but, here, I have removed the cables from the nylon screw so it can be seen more clearly.

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This is a close-up of the sponge and nylon screw.

Note: About a month after using the following design, I changed it. Partly because of the "rocking" -- espeically when "plugging" or "unplugging" Patch Cords and partly because I found a piece of rubberized, Shelf Liner. (Someone we know was about to throw this piece out, because they had already cut the size and shape they needed and this was left over.

This new method also works well AND there's no "rocking".

(12/4/15) This is the stand I made for our new "Roland System-1m" synthesizer. My initial idea was to use the left-over metal, Sylvia and I had purchased to make the stand for our Roland JP-08 synthesizer but the remaining sheet was too small. I was then going to make 2 "side sections", which bent-back and could be screwed into a board. Before I could begin making that, I had a better idea… I would simply cut 3 grooves into the board:

  • 1 for the entire front-edge of the System-1m, and
  • 1 for each of the 2 back "feet"

Then the 3 points which sit on the table would be held in place by those slots. There was 1 problem to this approach, however. The board would still slide when moving Faders, turning Knobs and, especially, when connecting and removing cables from the front panel.

My ideas kept making this design more and more complicated, because we would have to buy rubber "feet" or find a way to attach some type of rubber to the bottom of that board.

At one point, as I was digging into this design, Sylvia suggested I simply use the soft-rubber "pipe tube" that we found. Cut it to the width of the board and then cut a slit in, long-ways, into it. Make 2 of them and slide them over the edges of each end of that board. "What a great idea! Why didn't "I" think of that?" This design not only keeps the System-1m from sliding on the board but also keeps the board from sliding on a table or desk. It does rock a bit, however.

So here are some photos of the finished design… and, "yes", the "feet" of the System-1m will probably cut completely through those rubber sections. Before they do, we'll be looking for some type of big, wide (maybe 2-to 3-inches wide) rubber band that we can wrap around those board-edges, in place of those rubber tube pieces.

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This is the Roland System-1m sitting on the "stand". You can see the front-edge of the board and most of the soft-rubber tube on this edge. It's just wrapped around the board and being held in place by gravity. No glue. No nails.

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In this photo, you can see the back.

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This is a photo of the "stand" without the System-1m sitting on it.

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Here you can see how the soft-rubber tube simply slides over the edge of the board.

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In this photo, I've removed 1 soft-rubber tube and stood it up on its edge, so you can see the slit I made along its longest edge.

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This is a closer look at one side of the "stand".

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This is a closer look at the back of one edge.

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This is a close look at the back of the opposite edge. Looking down from above.

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Here, you can see the front-left edge from another angle.

Notice that I used the included "Rack Mount Ears" to lean and hold-up the System-1m. I simply turned that strong piece of metal in a different orientation from its intended purpose and only used 2 of the include 3 screws.

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This is a close-up view of the front-left edge.

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Another look from the front-left edge. Notice the gap under the board. The only "feet", pieces of this "stand" which touch the table, are the soft-rubber tubes.